Day five has been a bit of a fail on our part. Not being
true Italianos we do not nap during siesta time, we tend to do the British
thing of leaving the house around 9.30 and spending the day out, returning home
at around 5.30 or 6. This, be warned dear reader, is NOT the way to do things
in Italia! Here you wake at the craic, you do your chores close to home. You return to bed around 1.30 when everyone
siestas. Life does then not resume again until around 4.30pm and parties on
until around 10pm, unless of course it is carnival time and then you boogie
until dawn and the cycle begins again.
This, you would think, is not an issue, but, with small
British kids in tow, a siesta is out of the question due to small people’s
needs to ask continual impossible questions and poke you in the eyeballs as you
pretend to be asleep; as are ‘really
early starts’ (this is primarily due to teens needing to sleep and small girls
taking forever to get out of the house, then needing to return back to go for a
wee as they forgot!). Today we decided to visit San Gimignano or as we’d
renamed it, Chimichangas! Given quite a lot of space in the guidebook and
described as a medieval city of skyscrapers with the best ice creamery in the
world, we thought that we’d pay it a call. Unbeknownst to us, our guidebook has
obviously been translated into at least 4 million languages and that small 2
inches of write up in Italy with Kids is like the touch paper to a fire.
Leaving here around 9.30am we meandered round the hairpin bends at a leisurely
pace (frankly, if we’d not gone at a leisurely pace, we’d have ended up rolling
back down the mountain sides). On our arrival in San Gimignano we discovered
that every car park was full in the whole town bar ‘3’ spaces in one of the car
parks! Yet again we were learning why the majority of cars in this part of
Italy are no bigger than a Fiat Panda and have as many dents as a colander has
holes. We knew that to fight against the rest of the planet to visit this town
in a car the size of a minibus was not going to happen. We drove to a small
village 1.5 miles out of San Gimignano to the advertised ‘Park and Ride’, only
to sit and wait in the deserted car park, too scared to put our money into the
automated ticket machine to buy our bus tickets as we’d not seen a single
person this far out, let alone a bloody bus, Peartree Park and Ride this ain’t!
We drove back up to the town and circled a couple of times just in case Lady Luck
decided to smile on us, however, today she decided to fart.
Lesson learned: to
ensure that we get up at the craic if we want half a chance of parking anywhere
and to take the scenic route HOME from places and the fast route TO places.
Instead we took a similar leisurely meander back down the
same mountains, stopped for lunch at an Agricturismi with an amazing view of
the town we so nearly visited, stopped at an organic wine and oil tasting farm
to sample lovely Chianti and peppery olive oil with a farmer’s wife with bright
red hair (not that her hair was remotely relevant, except it looked awesome!),
tried to take some relatively convincingly alive photos of end of season
sunflowers, got stung by a wasp (not me, Mr Beehive!), tried to get diesel for
the car from antiquated self-service machines that didn’t take any of our
cards, so we could only fill up 30 Euros worth of fuel as that was all we had on us in cash, and
ended up back where we started some 8 hours earlier.
Tomorrow we intend an early
start to visit Montalcino’s Friday market. I think, learning from experience,
we will leave before the cockerel crows as whatever parking spaces there may be,
are likely to be taken up by market vendors! We are also praying that the fact
that this town is NOT in bold in our guidebook may be an indicator that it is
less touristic, however, the alarm clock is set as we’re not taking any
chances…in fact we may even drive over tonight and sleep out in our sleeping
bags just to make sure ;-)
2 comments:
Oh poor you you are in Tuscany at the busiest time of year, this is Ferrogosto where Italy celebrates harvest and goes to the beach, parties till dawn etc. We totally love living here but my only advice in this crazy summer heat is to go with the flow, expect the unexpected and do what the Tuscan's are doing, celebrating family, friends, food and life x Hope your holiday gets more relaxing x
Ha ha, thanks Sharon, we finally clicked that we'd hit the wrong month. That said, we've had a wonderful time. We've lived in quite a few different places around the world and, although Tuscany is so beautiful and lovely, it was a tad frustrating! However, reading your blog shows me it can be done. x
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